AN EAST CAPE ROAD TRIP
Te Araroa would have to be one of my favourite parts of the country. Located along the North Island’s Eastern Most point, the place has a unique raw feel to it truly like no other. It was late November with THINGS already starting to feel like summer, so what better way to celebrate than to hit the road and camp out for a few nights. The trip began with a drive straight to Te Araroa from Gisborne along the iconic highway 35’, arriving right on dusk.
Sight seeing along the iconic Highway 35
After a couple of quick sunset stops it was time to head to the Te Araroa Holiday Park to unwind. The setup for the night saw my trusty roof top tent placed beneath a flowering Pohutakawa tree, sleeping to the sounds of Morepork and Tui. Waking to a warm Spring morning, first on the agenda was to take the short walk over the farmland to the nearby beach. A lush subtropical paradise, this place is an absolute treasure of the Cape! With draped Pohutakawas over a rocky ridge, the beach has a tropical feel a lot like the Coromandel. Enjoying this beach for a couple of hours without a soul in sight was the perfect start to the trip.
Just a 5 minute walk from the Te Araroa Holiday Park you will find this place
Next stop was the East Cape Manuka Cafe - just a short drive from the campground. The place is impressive with friendly service, good coffee and a great menu! With quality Manuka boutique products from honey to health tonics &everything in between - it's well worth a look.
After an hour or so relaxing on garden bean bags, the wind was getting up so I knew just the spot to shelter. A little past Hicks Bay it was time to park up roadside and take a short walk through the paddocks to the Waihirere falls. A true hidden gem, the falls give way to a perfect little swimming hole surrounded by mossy rock walls. Another epic spot with no one else around.
Hidden waterfalls - seek and you shall find..
Late afternoon involved taking the drive around the East Cape road towards the lighthouse for a bit of sightseeing and roadside snack stops. This place has got to be one of my favourite corners of NZ, with a rugged gravel road that gives way to an isolated beach surrounded by mini mountains. With cattle and wild horses scattered along the edge of the beach this place really is something else.
The East Cape Road - truly iconic
The distinguishing feature at this time of year was a sea of yellow lupins - everywhere. I couldn't help but get out & take a bunch of shots - it was a sight to behold. It turned out that the iconic gravel road was eventually tar sealed just a few weeks later. I'm feeling pretty lucky to have captured these shots of the road in its raw state one last time.
Yellow flowers all over the place
Day two started with a coffee fix from the new favourite cafe, followed by a short drive to check out Hicks Bay wharf. The weather was warm but moody, with the water inviting enough for a swim. As a tropical storm brewed offshore, The sunny skies overhead quickly transformed into wild cloud formations. The water was fresh. to complete the scene there was a local quietly drinking steinlagers in his ute while playing one of the best 70's playlists I've ever heard. Vibes!
NZ - a true subtropical paradise
After an easy day and a quick drive-by of Horseshoe Bay it was time for the next phase of the trip. The plan was to climb the East Cape lighthouse for the following morning's sunrise. Logistically, it was best to stay at the East Cape Campground which is the closest place to wake up. A beautiful green field that connects to the sand, it’s quite a place to set up camp. There was just one minor problem. Winds were blowing close to gale with the full campground exposed to the brunt of it. It'll be sweet - up went the tent! After a quick scare where the tent almost got blown off the roof, the home for the night was set. So far the trip had seen almost everything from sunshine, a storm, beaches and waterfalls. What followed was a poetic manifestation, the most vibrant and striking rainbow I'd ever seen! It lasted for half an hour and shone brightly - an unforgettable natural spectacle.
A striking sight from the East Cape Campground
Being pretty charged up after the light-show, it was time for an early night in the crows nest with a 4:30am alarm set. Lets just say there wasn't much quality sleep with the wind blasting at the tent through the night. Up before the alarm AND at the foot of the lighthouse right on time, it was a relief to see the sky had blown clear.
The first sunrise to see the new day - The East Cape Lighthouse & East Island
After scaling the 800 stairs - the sun rising behind Whangaokeno / East Island with the large lighthouse directly overhead was a warm & welcome sight. The landscape here is majestic; green fields lie amidst mountainous terrain with that unmistakable East Coast signature of pale eroding cliffs. What made this morning particularly special was a complete lack of other tourists Around - the place was peacefully empty. Being November, things were noticeably quiet the entire trip with just a few intrepid folk scattered throughout the campgrounds - clearly an effect of Covid with the lack of internationals.
Just a short 800 steps to make it up in time
I later had the fortune of meeting a couple that own the farm at the foot of the lighthouse there. The family has been there for over 100 years. I asked them their take on how the locals view the tourist situation - the answer was of mixed emotions. They told me they are happy when the tourists are respectful in how they drive, the way they treat the land and when they clean up after themselves. But they also told me a story of campervans crashing into their fence on two separate occasions and driving off without so much as an apology or explanation. As with any travel - if you happen to visit these lands always treat the place with respect. It pays to be mindful that there are people here that call this amazing place their home.
Lush lands
To wrap, for me this was the ideal trip. It's a treat to travel around our fine lands and get to experience these places largely free from the hustle and bustle that we aim to leave behind. It's something to never be taken for granted though - take only photographs, leave only footprints. Until next time..
Words & images by Damon Meade